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| 제목 | 25 Unexpected Facts About Audi G28 |
|---|---|
| 작성자 | Tiffani |
| 조회수 | 15회 |
| 작성일 | 25-05-19 12:29 |
| 링크 |
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How to Replace an audi key fobs G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the top of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control the flow of fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. However, the code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing can be a bit difficult since there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions but the most effective method to test it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read approximately 1000 ohms when it is in full operation. If you are having problems with this component, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll i had a big cut in power like the engine is running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were drenched in gasoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine without sparks, i place a tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55/30/55/48/55/14/55/48/ I get 0ohm. I'm assuming that the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged and is running fine when it is connected but it still has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars but the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do, i believe that i've ruled out everything else. But i am afraid i might have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 receives signals from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or a parts store. It is simple to test them: simply switch your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing upwards). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to know the position and speed the crankshaft in order to make a decision about fuel injector timing, etc. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you have a problem with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
The signs of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate gearbox rev counter, gears shifting quicker than normal and/or a misfire when in gear. If you experience any of these issues, it is most likely that your sensor is failing and requires replacement. They are cheap and easy-to-find especially in the case of an Bosch sensor like ours. You can also choose the GM version of this part is also a good choice.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues within your vehicle. It's a crucial component of the transmission in your audi advance key since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the engine of the car is spinning. If this sensor fails, it can affect the performance of the transmission, as well as the rest of the car key replacement audi's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via an uncolored wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to regulate fuel, timig, and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms resistance between those two pins. This part is common across the audi q5 key 80-100-200-RS2 range, from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS An and 1995 RS2 Du So, you may find some good ones in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the top of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer located on the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, directly above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control the flow of fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. However, the code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing can be a bit difficult since there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions but the most effective method to test it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read approximately 1000 ohms when it is in full operation. If you are having problems with this component, look for evidence of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll i had a big cut in power like the engine is running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were drenched in gasoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine without sparks, i place a tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 drenched with gazoline jump out but the 4th stays shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55/30/55/48/55/14/55/48/ I get 0ohm. I'm assuming that the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged and is running fine when it is connected but it still has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars but the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do, i believe that i've ruled out everything else. But i am afraid i might have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump of the g28 receives signals from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or a parts store. It is simple to test them: simply switch your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing upwards). They should be infinite Ohms.4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to know the position and speed the crankshaft in order to make a decision about fuel injector timing, etc. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you have a problem with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
The signs of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate gearbox rev counter, gears shifting quicker than normal and/or a misfire when in gear. If you experience any of these issues, it is most likely that your sensor is failing and requires replacement. They are cheap and easy-to-find especially in the case of an Bosch sensor like ours. You can also choose the GM version of this part is also a good choice.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues within your vehicle. It's a crucial component of the transmission in your audi advance key since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the engine of the car is spinning. If this sensor fails, it can affect the performance of the transmission, as well as the rest of the car key replacement audi's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via an uncolored wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to regulate fuel, timig, and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms resistance between those two pins. This part is common across the audi q5 key 80-100-200-RS2 range, from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS An and 1995 RS2 Du So, you may find some good ones in wrecking yards.
